a - i just spent a week in yosemite. grew close to god. escaped (if only momentarily) the melodrama of life, work, and the 2008 election mess. read an amazing book. had my life changed in a small, but significant way. i plan to write more on this sometime soon.
b - as of september 15th, i will be starting a new job. not particularly excited about a daily commute to irvine, but am particularly excited about the prospect of designing websites for a living. at the very least, it will serve as an excuse to move south and fulfill my self-made life prophecy of surfing every day.
c - i noticed that a photo i took made its way onto urban climber’s homepage. they refused it for print less than a month ago, but i suppose this will do. (screenshot)
d - as utterly disappointed as i am with donald miller and his closing benediction at the national democratic convention (which was, in truth, more like blasphemy than anything else), i was slightly excited to discover that he has (at long last) released a weblog of his own. i have always enjoyed his writings, regardless of how disputatious his views often are.
e - anyone excited about the release of google chrome? i am.
so, being the wave riding junkie that i am, i felt compelled to write about one of the coolest experiences i’ve had since i started surfing.
surfing salt creek on a regular basis, you are often privied to sharing lineups with your favorite pros. laguna beach is home to a huge number former (and current) top 44 guys: donavon frankenreiter, pat o’connell, mike parsons, mike losness to name a few. last night, a friend and i were trading waves on an empty peak on the south side of the beach, and over paddles tom curren; the most beloved surfer of all time, to sit next to us and share waves.
on a surfboard? no. he was on a boogie board. that’s right. a bright red, costco-made boogie board with a giant crease down the middle. no fins. i about died. the one guy who advocates “riding anything” and actually rides a boogie.
needless to say, i couldn’t take my eyes off of him. in the eyes of a surfer, tom curren is royalty. and to trade waves with a guy i’ve seen only in surf movies my entire life (at my home break, no less) was a dream come true.
so, in the interest of following doctor’s orders and finding an occasional alternative to my exorbitant coffee habit, i’ve begun to rekindle my love for loose leaf tea. teany.com has all the goods.
i recommend the golden nepal and HIGHLY recommend their lichee, if they still have it.
it is a travesty of elephantine proportions that i cannot afford an iphone and be able to partake in its newest feature: google reader. being as i am the biggest google reader loser in the history of the application, i feel that i should be able to test this feature and give it the timothy long stamp of awesomness.
i will be starting a fund to which any loving person can donate, if you so wish to help me become whole again.
early mornings.
freshly brewed coffee.
dark drives through laguna canyon.
offshore breezes.
south swells.
trading waves with close friends.
breakfast burritos.
bob marley on the 133.
succumbing to a mid-afternoon nap.
oh, my california gold…
